|
Today fine pearls compete with the finest diamonds
and jewelry and it is important to know how to determine the difference between
fine quality pearls and average pearls. Choosing pearls that are of the best
quality are determined by luster, nacre thickness and quality (the outer layer),
color, surface perfection, shape, and size. Become an expert at distinguishing
quality with these tips...
Pearls are very alluring and hold a quality that both defines elegance and
natural beauty. There are more varieties and availability of pearls today than
ever before. The �cultured pearl� now rivals with fine diamonds, sapphires,
emeralds, and rubies.
Today most pearls are cultured, meaning that the mollusk is purposely inserted
with an irritant or �nucleus� from which it creates a pearl. A better way to
think of the difference between natural pearls and cultured pearls is to think
of the natural pearl as a result of the mollusk working alone and the cultured
pearls as a product of nature being helped by science. Cultured pearls are not
�fake� like many people may think. The culturing process takes from two to three
years and is a very delicate process. The pearl farmers have little control on
what the outcome of the pearl will look like or if the mollusk will reject the
nucleus. Not all pearls are fine quality or even desirable at all. The end
result is ultimately a consequence of nature.
Choosing pearls that are of the best quality are determined by luster, nacre
thickness and quality (the outer layer), color, surface perfection, shape, and
size. The biggest factor of pearl quality is nacre thickness and quality which
determines how long the pearl will last. Nacre thickness determines the
longevity of the pearl and nacre quality determines how light reflects through
the layers of the pearls. High luster and iridescence come from high quality
nacre and any pearl with these characteristics has quality, thick nacre. When
judging nacre look for uniform iridescence, intensity of luster, cracks and
peeling, estimate thickness near the drill hole between the nacre and the shell
bead (nacre is lighter). Pearls are very thick with at least .5 mm on all
pearls, thick with at least.5mm on most pearls, medium with between .35 and .5
mm on most pearls, and thin with .25 mm or less on most pearls.
Luster is also important and one of the first factors to notice. Luster is an
intense brightness that illuminates from within the pearl rather than just being
�shiny� like in imitation pearls. The intense brightness results from light
being reflected throughout the numerous layers of nacre. Quality pearls will
have a sharp contrast between the brightest area where direct light is hitting
the pearls and the shaded area creating an illusion of a �ball within the
pearl.� Check for luster by examining them under a fluorescent lamp and rolling
them from side to side to examine uniform luster. Examine pearls over a light
gray or white material and never black because it is harder to see the true
quality of the pearl.
Pearl color is also important. When choosing pearls note there body color and
overtones. The most desirable and more rare white pearls have �rose� colored
overtones. Cream colored pearls are more affordable because they are less rare.
Also, pearls can have tones rated in intensity. Darker toned pearls are more
desirable and expensive compared to lighter toned pearls. Many natural body
colors are available in pearls including white, black, gray, blue, gold, pink,
and green. Distinctive colored pearls are rarer and harder to find. Have a
qualified gemologist check the pearls to make sure they have not been dyed,
especially for costlier pearls like the black or golden varieties.
Examine pearls� surface for blemishes. Although is best to check for most pearl
characteristics on a light background, it is best to check for blemishes on a
dark background. Check in both intense and diffused light. No pearls are perfect
and small blemishes can be sacrificed for more important quality like nacre and
luster. Pearls with higher luster conceal blemishes better.
When choosing pearls also consider shape. There are three pearl shapes including
symmetrical, spherical, and baroque. The spherical is the rarest and most
desirable. Symmetrical pearls include teardrop or pear-shaped pearls and
desirable but usually less expensive than spherical pearls. Baroque pearls are
irregularly shaped and often the least expensive.
Size should also be taken into consideration. Larger cultured pearls are rarer
and more expensive. Akoya pearls over 7 � millimeters are much more costly and
prices dramatically rise with each � millimeter over 8 millimeters. South Sea
and Tahitian pearls also have high increase in price when size is over 15
millimeters.
One more factor to consider in pearls is the precision in matching the pearl
quality in a string of pearls. It is important to take all of the above factors
in consideration when matching the pearls. Graduated pearls also take careful
matching. Pearl matching affects the value of the jewelry because when pearls
are not matched properly it takes away from the appearance of the jewelry. Also,
make sure the pearls are all drilled in the center so they lay properly.
Off-center drilled pearls will not lay correctly and reduces the value of the
piece.
It is always important to get a independent laboratory report when in doubt of
pearl enhancements that may have been employed to make the pearls appear more
valuable. Make sure the person appraising the pearls is a Graduate Gemologist (GG)
which is the Gemological Institute of America�s (GIA)highest award.
Other things to consider when purchasing pearls include finding out what the
merchant�s return policy is. Make sure they have at least a 30-day full refund
policy.
How To Determine The
Quality of Pearls
by Kevin Canning Pearls Of Joy Jewelry
USA
There are 6 main factors to keep in mind when
determining a pearls quality and worth:
Nacre, Luster, Surface, Shape, Color and Size.
Nacre:
Nacre is the smooth surface that gives the pearl its beauty. When an irritant
enters the oyster or as in the case of cultured pearls is place inside the
oyster, it responds by by coating the irritant with layers of nacre. The thicker
and smoother the nacre the more valuable the pearl. Good quality Akoya pearls
should have a nacre thickness of about 10-15% of the diameter of the pearl - in
comparison Tahitian pearls may be up to 50% nacre.
Luster:
This is the intense glow that comes from within the pearl, this is produced by
light entering the pearl and reflecting back through the layers of nacre. The
quality of the luster is directly related to how even and smooth the layers of
nacre are. You should be able to see your reflection on the surface of a pearl
with good luster. A pearl with no reflection or a dull color is of poor quality.
Surface:
With pearls the cleaner the surface the more valuable it will be. A good quality
pearl will have few blemishes or marks - of course a pearl is a from mother
nature and few minor blemishes should be expected on all but the finest strands.
Shape:
A perfectly round pearl is the most sought after and the most rare of cultured
pearls. So rare are round pearls that only 5-10% of a pearl farm's harvest will
be even and round. The rest of the harvest will vary from semi-round pearls to
asymmetrical baroque pearls.
Color:
Color does not greatly affect the price of pearls as it is mostly a matter of
taste - When choosing a color a general guideline is skin tone. Many women with
fair or light colored skin feel pink overtones look best. While women with dark
skin or that tan easily find black or cream overtones look best. For more info
see - Pearl Color
Size:
Pearls can range in size from 1mm seed pearls to huge 20mm South Sea pearls. -
cultured pearls of 6 - 7.5mm are the most common, above this size the price
jumps upward rapidly with each half-millimeter from 7.5mm up. To date the
largest pearl recorded is a 26.95mm baroque south sea pearl.
The Color of Pearls
by Kevin Canning Pearls Of Joy USA
Pearls come in wide variety of colors, also known as
"palette of colors". From whites, yellows, golden, pinks, blues and black and
almost every shade in between. Pearl color refers specifically to the color of
the pearl's body, considered the fundamental color of the pearl.
Colors generally range from cream, to silver-white (most common), to black (most
rare). But there are also color overtones reflected across a pearl's surface. In
fact, the color of a pearl more often than not is a meld of its body color and
its overtone, a pearl with a "pink overtone" will describe a white pearl with a
pink colored hue.
Akoya Pearls
Akoya cultured pearls are white lustrous pearls with usually cream or pink
colored overtones. These are the classic pearls most often used in pearl
strands. Classic cultured Akoya pearls come in shades of white, the most
valuable shades being pink and white.
Freshwater Pearls
Freshwater pearls come in various pastel shades of white, black, pink, peach,
lavender, plum, purple, and tangerine.
South Sea Pearls
South Sea cultured pearls come in shades of lustrous white, often with silver or
ros� overtones. They are larger in size than the Akoya pearls and are used in
the creation of fine pearl strands and ropes.
Tahitian Pearls
Tahitian pearls are most often in shades of black and gray. While a Tahitian
pearl has a black body color, it will vary in its overtones, which most often
will be green or pink.
Which color pearl should I purchase?
Today, all pearls are cultured, as opposed to natural -- but their color is
naturally produced by the oyster.
Color does not affect the quality of a pearl, but does affect the perceived
beauty of the pearl according to the individual taste of the "eye of the
beholder". Some colors have become more popular than others in particular
markets. For example, white pearls are the most popular in America, while silver
are more sought after in Asia.
A general guideline is skin tone. Many women with fair or light colored skin
feel pink overtones look best. While women with dark skin or tan easily find
black or cream overtones look best.
What color you choose should be based on the personal preference of the person
who will wear the pearls.
|
